Latest work

  • It’s nevicating!

    Via Tuscolana near Piazza di Cinecittà in Februrary 1986. In all, 15-to-25 inches fell on the city, slightly more than February 2012. Rome last endured a real blizzard 27 years ago in February. I remember because I boarded the final Rome-bound flight cleared to leave London’s Heathrow airport. The departure…

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  • Italy as Daley-town

    Mayor Richard J. Daley, who ran Chicago for 21 years in the mid-20th century. Despite intensifying resentment against him, few are the ways that Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi can lose his grip on power in the foreseeable future. The first is his willing resignation, a highly unlikely event; the…

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  • Italian election aftershocks

    It’s no surprise that Berlusconi requires demagoguery to maintain his magnetism. Once, bosses took umbrage for sport. It might have been the ominous lure of the word: umbra, shade, the neuter of umbraticus, which is incomparably Latin. In 1950s and 60s Italy, workers got boxes of pasta for Christmas, though the real gift was…

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  • In the heat of the moment

    So, when it’s really really hot, it’s important to stay hydrated. It is 11 a.m. on what has for days been billed as Rome’s hottest summer day so far. This is thick, wet air, stagnant and honey-like, unrelated to hair-dryer Saharan heat, So far, it’s a modest 33 degrees Celsius,…

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  • Immaculate anxiety

    The author and Enzo Ferrari. Below, his signature. Dim light gives you the meat of a face. His was amber and mottled. He wore marmalade glasses with the heft of goggles. His employees referred to him only as l’ingeniere, “the engineer.” To visit him, we’d gone north by train into prematurely…

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  • Ignition

    People Power brought down Ferdinand Marcos in 1986. Collectively rising up against authority is a thrilling act that once set in motion thrives on adolescent resoluteness that increases in proportion to the forces arrayed against it. It generates self-esteem, nobility and a gradual addiction to a loose set of goals…

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