Latest work

  • The mean season

    Rome is capable of lining up a 100 straight nearly identical (and rainless) summer days. This is Rome’s mean season. Every day is Groundhog Day. Weeks resemble the ones just past until the torrid contagion spreads to months. It doesn’t rain during the mean season. Clouds and breezes come and…

    Read more: The mean season
  • Navarro- Valls

    Pope John Paul II, the former Archbishop of Krakow, and Spanish journalist Joaquín Navarro-Valls when he was named Vatican press spokesman in 1984. Two small and often overlooked events had a major impact on the ways and means of the modern papacy. The first was John Paul I’s decision to…

    Read more: Navarro- Valls
  • The visible boy

    Ellar Coltrane in the movie “Boyhood.” Iwas once a mischievously contradictory schoolboy. Sent to a prestigious Washington academy founded by French nuns, I learned English but little else. In first grade I found arithmetic offensive and refused to add or subtract, let alone divide. Things worsened the next year when…

    Read more: The visible boy
  • Grins from below

    Saddam Hussein in 1980: “Après moi,” le deluge, or close. In their waning days, two tyrants spun Louis XV-style foreboding mocked by enlightened mass media at the time as both self-serving and pathetic. Iraq’s invasion-imperiled Saddam Hussein warned his country, if occupied, would become a cradle for extremism and regional…

    Read more: Grins from below
  • Requiem for Via Veneto

    In the 1950s and 60s, Via Veneto was a madcap traffic by day and packed bars by night. Terry Thomas! There he was in person. At the table beside us no less. It had to be. It was June 1967 and my father had flown me to Rome where one…

    Read more: Requiem for Via Veneto
  • To love or detest

    The Curva Sud, home to Roma’s most ferociously militant fans, tends to see civility as a sell-out. Ionce knew a man called Mr. Loveable. He had a son called Ercole, Hercules. In the late 1980s, Mr. Loveable was a Rome carpenter and Hercules his assistant and errand boy. Each time…

    Read more: To love or detest