
2017
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Nella morsa
Go to St. Peter’s Square on a below-freezing night and you might have it to yourself. Rome has a uniquely…
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About bastards
Two bastards, with a side order of politics. Three Italian doctors convene in windowless room in a Fascist-era Rome hospital.…
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Carnage
For some, 2008 was a horror show. But they were drowned out, until now. January 2009 was a grim time…
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The vengeful
Throughout postwar France and Italy, women who collaborated or communed with the Nazis had their heads shaved by vengeful crowds.…
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Extinguished
The smile few could ignore. My mother’s depression began in the fall of 1963. It deepened in the following month…
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The slippery buck
The Truman desk sign came to epitomize a president who spoke his mind, often unadorned. Harry Truman had a sign…
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Dream-killer
Italy’s view of the United States is still conditioned by Rome’s June 1944 liberation. Italian mainstream media is beginning to…
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Toys became us
Sharing was out of the question… At the epochal 34th-Street Toy Conference of 1964 (regrettably under-reported at the time), Byrne…
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Gatté
The repressed sounds of your first language can come howling back. As you age you revert to your native language.…
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No faint solace
The author at his Columbia graduation. Iapplied to university in an era before the cost of a four-year degree approximated…
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Hoffa in Paraguay
Jimmy Hoffa, you ask? In Paraguay. My insomniac aunt once relied on talk radio to escort her through the unkind…
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Tighten up
Gavrilo Princip’s murder of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife in Sarajevo on June 28, 1914 led to…
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76 trombones
Rotary heaven… At a certain age, age becomes you. Like mourning becomes Electra. New inventions and refreshed conventions disdain all…
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Giovanni
Giovanni spent most days seated on a straw chair. The superintendent of our Rome building when I was a boy…
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Own it
Why be aware when you can own? Recently, a friend of mine acknowledged she talked too much. But she knew…
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Limbs to lose
Hamburg, 1945: Wantonness, and then regret. Phantom pain occurs when a confused brain sends messages to severed limbs, rejecting the…
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All the names
Handwritten letters are now few. Afriend from university just sent me a postcard. It’s her eccentric way of maintaining a…
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A day in the life
In the fashionable heyday of jet travel, posters were invitations to a luxury experience. It will be a very long…
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Pizza a taglio
An unexpected career change. Adecade ago, a nearby neighbor ran a thriving Rome construction business that remodeled homes and refurbished…
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Notsies
The Franco family was no exception to the size rule. It’s been about 40 years since I was last pregnant.…
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My way
Donald Trump speaking at the U.S. Embassy residency in Rome, Villa Taverna. One morning last week my one-night-stand presidential neighbor…
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Sale and commission
In 1961, outgoing President Dwight Eisenhower, right, warned of the ascent of a so called military-industrial complex: “The potential for…
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By the tracks
Rome’s Termini station has always been a class-free and multiethnic hive, but now the tracks are locked off. Before security,…
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To love or detest
The Curva Sud, home to Roma’s most ferociously militant fans, tends to see civility as a sell-out. Ionce knew a…
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Requiem for Via Veneto
In the 1950s and 60s, Via Veneto was a madcap traffic by day and packed bars by night. Terry Thomas!…
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Grins from below
Saddam Hussein in 1980: “Après moi,” le deluge, or close. In their waning days, two tyrants spun Louis XV-style foreboding…
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The visible boy
Ellar Coltrane in the movie “Boyhood.” Iwas once a mischievously contradictory schoolboy. Sent to a prestigious Washington academy founded by…
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Navarro- Valls
Pope John Paul II, the former Archbishop of Krakow, and Spanish journalist Joaquín Navarro-Valls when he was named Vatican press…
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The mean season
Rome is capable of lining up a 100 straight nearly identical (and rainless) summer days. This is Rome’s mean season.…
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The third coming
Detail from Picasso’s “Guernica”: never mind enlightened thinking. If you want to make God laugh, tell him about your plans.…
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M&M power
The two M’s, Macron and Merkel, have patiently helped restart the EU. Donald trump has received an early Christmas present.…
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Loudmouths
North Korea’s Kim Il-sung (1972-1994) and Kim Jong-il (1997-2011), a father-son dynasty now in the hands of Kim no. 3,…
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House of Trump
Donald Trump is still campaigning. Ask a hyperbolic and self-interested businessman to weigh in on an acrimonious racial dispute and…
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Pity the general
Smiles aside, future glory seems improbable. Pity the general. He is the son of a general who was the son…
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Κατακλυσμός
Meet Mr. Harvey. Houston did. Not a month ago, they remarked – these august journalists seated at an August dinner…
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The storms within
Pick your storm, outside or in. Winged insects were my staples. To have and to hold and to break: flies,…
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Last sighted
Detail from a painting by Max Beckmann. Don’t miss it. Don’t be late. Be prepared. Be prompt. Honor your pledges.…
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Harvey Trump
Donald Trump in 2005: “…When you’re a star, they [women] let you do it. You can do anything…” Transference is…
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Whatever the hurt
Some Rome pipes haven’t been touched in decades. Cut into a Rome water pipe and you know immediately why the…
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Typhoid Rome
European cities, including London, Paris, and Madrid, have all been hit with terrorist violence since 2001. Not Rome. Since 2001,…
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On witches, Reds and Spacey
Harvey Weinstein and Kevin Spacey: separate disgraces motivated by similar zeal. Incidents of mass hysteria figure prominently in America’s young…
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Unvarnished darkness
Anita Hill testifying before Congress in 1991: a different kind of courage. Sixteen years ago, New York City firemen entered…
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At the mosaic, turn left
Outside the post office is the bus terminus. Late at night, you’ll have to wait. Enter the main post office…
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When soap was soup
As the World Turns made its debut in 1956. But where’s the soup? Ifirst heard about soup operas just before…

Essays
A collection of writings spanning 2004 to 2025, originally published in The American Magazine.











