2017

  • Nella morsa

    Nella morsa

    Go to St. Peter’s Square on a below-freezing night and you might have it to yourself. Rome has a uniquely…

  • About bastards

    About bastards

    Two bastards, with a side order of politics. Three Italian doctors convene in windowless room in a Fascist-era Rome hospital.…

  • Carnage

    Carnage

    For some, 2008 was a horror show. But they were drowned out, until now. January 2009 was a grim time…

  • The vengeful

    The vengeful

    Throughout postwar France and Italy, women who collaborated or communed with the Nazis had their heads shaved by vengeful crowds.…

  • Extinguished

    Extinguished

    The smile few could ignore. My mother’s depression began in the fall of 1963. It deepened in the following month…

  • The slippery buck

    The slippery buck

    The Truman desk sign came to epitomize a president who spoke his mind, often unadorned. Harry Truman had a sign…

  • Dream-killer

    Dream-killer

    Italy’s view of the United States is still conditioned by Rome’s June 1944 liberation. Italian mainstream media is beginning to…

  • Toys became us

    Toys became us

    Sharing was out of the question… At the epochal 34th-Street Toy Conference of 1964 (regrettably under-reported at the time), Byrne…

  • Gatté

    Gatté

    The repressed sounds of your first language can come howling back. As you age you revert to your native language.…

  • No faint solace

    No faint solace

    The author at his Columbia graduation. Iapplied to university in an era before the cost of a four-year degree approximated…

  • Hoffa in Paraguay

    Hoffa in Paraguay

    Jimmy Hoffa, you ask? In Paraguay. My insomniac aunt once relied on talk radio to escort her through the unkind…

  • Tighten up

    Tighten up

    Gavrilo Princip’s murder of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife in Sarajevo on June 28, 1914 led to…

  • 76 trombones

    76 trombones

    Rotary heaven… At a certain age, age becomes you. Like mourning becomes Electra. New inventions and refreshed conventions disdain all…

  • Giovanni

    Giovanni

    Giovanni spent most days seated on a straw chair. The superintendent of our Rome building when I was a boy…

  • Own it

    Own it

    Why be aware when you can own? Recently, a friend of mine acknowledged she talked too much. But she knew…

  • Limbs to lose

    Limbs to lose

    Hamburg, 1945: Wantonness, and then regret. Phantom pain occurs when a confused brain sends messages to severed limbs, rejecting the…

  • All the names

    All the names

    Handwritten letters are now few. Afriend from university just sent me a postcard. It’s her eccentric way of maintaining a…

  • A day in the life

    A day in the life

    In the fashionable heyday of jet travel, posters were invitations to a luxury experience. It will be a very long…

  • Pizza a taglio

    Pizza a taglio

    An unexpected career change. Adecade ago, a nearby neighbor ran a thriving Rome construction business that remodeled homes and refurbished…

  • Notsies

    Notsies

    The Franco family was no exception to the size rule. It’s been about 40 years since I was last pregnant.…

  • My way

    My way

    Donald Trump speaking at the U.S. Embassy residency in Rome, Villa Taverna. One morning last week my one-night-stand presidential neighbor…

  • Sale and commission

    Sale and commission

    In 1961, outgoing President Dwight Eisenhower, right, warned of the ascent of a so called military-industrial complex: “The potential for…

  • By the tracks

    By the tracks

    Rome’s Termini station has always been a class-free and multiethnic hive, but now the tracks are locked off. Before security,…

  • To love or detest

    To love or detest

    The Curva Sud, home to Roma’s most ferociously militant fans, tends to see civility as a sell-out. Ionce knew a…

  • Requiem for Via Veneto

    Requiem for Via Veneto

    In the 1950s and 60s, Via Veneto was a madcap traffic by day and packed bars by night. Terry Thomas!…

  • Grins from below

    Grins from below

    Saddam Hussein in 1980: “Après moi,” le deluge, or close. In their waning days, two tyrants spun Louis XV-style foreboding…

  • The visible boy

    The visible boy

    Ellar Coltrane in the movie “Boyhood.” Iwas once a mischievously contradictory schoolboy. Sent to a prestigious Washington academy founded by…

  • Navarro- Valls

    Navarro- Valls

    Pope John Paul II, the former Archbishop of Krakow, and Spanish journalist Joaquín Navarro-Valls when he was named Vatican press…

  • The mean season

    The mean season

    Rome is capable of lining up a 100 straight nearly identical (and rainless) summer days. This is Rome’s mean season.…

  • The third coming

    The third coming

    Detail from Picasso’s “Guernica”: never mind enlightened thinking. If you want to make God laugh, tell him about your plans.…

  • M&M power

    M&M power

    The two M’s, Macron and Merkel, have patiently helped restart the EU. Donald trump has received an early Christmas present.…

  • Loudmouths

    Loudmouths

    North Korea’s Kim Il-sung (1972-1994) and Kim Jong-il (1997-2011), a father-son dynasty now in the hands of Kim no. 3,…

  • House of Trump

    House of Trump

    Donald Trump is still campaigning. Ask a hyperbolic and self-interested businessman to weigh in on an acrimonious racial dispute and…

  • Pity the general

    Pity the general

    Smiles aside, future glory seems improbable. Pity the general. He is the son of a general who was the son…

  • Κατακλυσμός

    Κατακλυσμός

    Meet Mr. Harvey. Houston did. Not a month ago, they remarked – these august journalists seated at an August dinner…

  • The storms within

    The storms within

    Pick your storm, outside or in. Winged insects were my staples. To have and to hold and to break: flies,…

  • Last sighted

    Last sighted

    Detail from a painting by Max Beckmann. Don’t miss it. Don’t be late. Be prepared. Be prompt. Honor your pledges.…

  • Harvey Trump

    Harvey Trump

    Donald Trump in 2005: “…When you’re a star, they [women] let you do it. You can do anything…” Transference is…

  • Whatever the hurt

    Whatever the hurt

    Some Rome pipes haven’t been touched in decades. Cut into a Rome water pipe and you know immediately why the…

  • Typhoid Rome

    Typhoid Rome

    European cities, including London, Paris, and Madrid, have all been hit with terrorist violence since 2001. Not Rome. Since 2001,…

  • On witches, Reds and Spacey

    On witches, Reds and Spacey

    Harvey Weinstein and Kevin Spacey: separate disgraces motivated by similar zeal. Incidents of mass hysteria figure prominently in America’s young…

  • Unvarnished darkness

    Unvarnished darkness

    Anita Hill testifying before Congress in 1991: a different kind of courage. Sixteen years ago, New York City firemen entered…

  • At the mosaic, turn left

    At the mosaic, turn left

    Outside the post office is the bus terminus. Late at night, you’ll have to wait. Enter the main post office…

  • When soap was soup

    When soap was soup

    As the World Turns made its debut in 1956. But where’s the soup? Ifirst heard about soup operas just before…